Boat Tools to Keep on Board, an Essential Checklist

At a glance

Keep a waterproof flashlight, signaling gear, a marine fire extinguisher, a manual bilge pump and basic hand tools on board. Heavier items like a grease gun and a rope cutter belong in the shop or dock box.

  • Safety gear comes first, and required equipment varies by boat size and where you operate.
  • Screwdrivers, pliers, hose clamps, zip ties and tape cover common onboard fixes.
  • Prop wrench, multimeter and wire tools are vessel specific or suit larger boats.
Boat Tools Checklist, Essential Versus Nice to HaveEmergency Boat Tools You NeedRecommended Extra Boat ToolsShop and Dock Box Tools Worth AddingOnboard Kit Versus Shop KitFrequently Asked Questions
Boater Safety and Emergency Kit with air horn, throw bag and bilge pump

The right tool for this job

Boater Safety & Emergency Kit

Includes an air horn, water throw bag, manual bilge pump and mini telescoping paddle. Made for small boats, tenders, pontoons, kayaks and PWCs.

View the Boater Safety & Emergency Kit

The boat tools worth keeping on board are a waterproof flashlight, signaling gear, a marine fire extinguisher, a manual bilge pump, a tow line, a screwdriver, pliers, a ratchet and socket set, a rigging knife, hose clamps, zip ties, tape and, for outboards and sterndrives, a prop wrench with a spare prop. Electrical testing tools suit larger boats. Heavier items like a grease gun and a rope cutter belong in the shop or dock box. Wouldn't it be handy to come across a hardware store on the water? Since that never happens, a compact kit lets you handle small problems and keep everyone safe until help or home port is in reach.

A good emergency kit comes first. Everyone aboard needs to be safe and secure after misfortune strikes. Cargo space is limited on most boats, so it also helps to avoid overpacking tools and boat products. Check the US Coast Guard rules and your state rules for the safety equipment required on your boat, since requirements vary by boat size and where you operate.

Boat Tools Checklist, Essential Versus Nice to Have

This quick reference sorts every tool in this guide by how much it matters and where it should live. Essential means worth carrying whenever the boat leaves the dock. Safety gear is listed separately because required equipment varies by boat size, engine type and where you operate, so confirm it against US Coast Guard and state rules. Nice to have means the tool earns its space on larger boats or longer trips.

Tool Priority Where it lives
Marine fire extinguisher Safety gear, check US Coast Guard and state rules On board
Visual distress signals and air horn Safety gear, check US Coast Guard and state rules On board
Waterproof flashlight with spare batteries Essential On board
Manual bilge pump Onboard backup where appropriate On board
Paddle Essential for kayaks, dinghies, tenders and other small boats only On board
Tow line rated for towing Depends on your boat and waters On board
Jump pack or alternate battery setup Nice to have, follow your manuals On board
Screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, locking pliers Essential On board
Ratchet, sockets and spare spark plug Vessel specific, for engines with spark plugs On board
Rigging knife Essential On board
Hose clamps, zip ties and tape Essential On board
Multimeter, wire strippers, crimp connectors, crimping tool and fuses Nice to have On board for larger boats
Prop wrench and spare prop Vessel specific, for outboards and sterndrives On board
Moisture meter Nice to have Shop
Grease gun Nice to have Shop
Hot knife rope cutter Nice to have Shop or dock box

Emergency Boat Tools You Need

When all attempts at maintenance fail and a real emergency is at hand, these tools can be life savers.

1. Waterproof Flashlight

If your boat suffers a failure at night, a waterproof flashlight is your best friend. It gives you clear vision to make repairs and a way to draw attention from other boats. Make sure it works, and keep spare batteries in a waterproof bag.

Treat a flashlight as a supplemental signaling tool only. It does not replace the navigation lights and signaling devices your boat is required to carry, and how well it can be seen depends on weather, line of sight and battery condition.

The SOS pattern is three short flashes, three long flashes, and three short flashes. Repeat it as needed, and keep in mind that a distant boat may still not read the signal.

2. Tow Line

If you're stuck adrift, a tow line can be your ticket out. Towing puts heavy loads on lines and fittings, so a line made and rated for towing is the right choice, not a light dock line. Attach it only to strong, properly mounted points, and follow both boats' manuals for towing guidance, including speed and conditions.

Before any tow begins

  • Use a line made and rated for towing
  • Attach only to strong, properly mounted points
  • Follow both boats' manuals for towing guidance
  • Agree with the other captain on how the tow will work
Towing loads are heavy, so plan before the line crosses

When help is needed, contact a towing service or the proper authorities when appropriate, and agree with the other captain on how the tow will work before any line goes across. Here is a real world example. On a friend's boat, having a tow line saved hours of getting back via trolling motor.

The first trip on a new lake started well, until the boat ran into a big seaweed patch on the way to a fishing spot. Sheer momentum carried the boat past the patch, but the motor overheated and would not start back up. Moving at a snail's pace on the trolling motor a long way from the launch, the crew flagged down a pontoon boat, and the 30 minute tow saved an hour or more of slow going.

3. Jump Pack or Alternate Battery

Got a finicky battery that leaves you dead in the water? A manufacturer-approved marine jump pack, or an alternate battery setup built into the boat, is the safer way to restart an engine when your manuals allow it. Check the boat and engine manuals for the approved procedure before connecting anything.

Batteries can give off flammable gas and gasoline vapors can collect in a bilge, so keep sparks away, ventilate the compartment, and leave jump starting between two boats to someone qualified to do it under the manufacturer's procedure. Do not bring boats together to share a battery in rough water.

A battery that dies often enough to need a jump may be telling you something. The guide to choosing a marine battery charger can help keep batteries topped off between trips.

4. Visual Distress Signals and Flares

Approved visual distress signals help rescuers find a boat that needs help. Which devices are required, and how many, depends on the vessel, where it operates and whether it is used at night. Check current US Coast Guard and state requirements before choosing, because a flare gun is not required or right for every boat.

Pick a signal for the hour

Flares and electric distress lights

Produce light and work best at night.

Smoke signals

Meant for daylight.

Air horn

A sound signal that can carry a good distance.

Many boaters carry a mix to be covered at any hour

Devices differ in how they signal. Aerial and handheld flares and electric distress lights produce light and work best at night, while smoke signals are meant for daylight. Many boaters carry a mix so they are covered at any hour. An air horn, like the one in the Boater Safety & Emergency Kit, adds a sound signal that can carry a good distance.

Flares are used rarely but sit in the elements, so check them regularly to be certain they are not damaged and still in good shape. Flares also carry an expiration date, so replace any that have expired.

5. Fire Extinguisher

Even surrounded by water, fire is a danger that can get out of hand. Flames can rapidly spread without the right equipment at the right time. Keeping a bucket on board is not enough. Take no chances and keep an up-to-date marine fire extinguisher within easy reach. The number and type you need depends on the size of your boat, so check US Coast Guard requirements.

6. Manual Bilge Pump and Backup Paddle

Electric pumps depend on battery power. A manual hand bilge pump moves unwanted water out of kayaks, canoes, dinghies and small boats when power is not available. It stores easily in tight spaces, and a long hose helps reach low areas and direct water where you want it.

If you would rather not piece together backup gear one item at a time, a ready-made boater safety and emergency kit keeps the essentials together for when power fails.

Better Boat Boater Safety & Emergency Kit product image

Backup gear for small boats

Boater Safety & Emergency Kit

This kit puts a manual bilge pump and a backup paddle together with a throw bag and an air horn. It gives a kayak, canoe or dinghy its power-free emergency gear in one purchase.

A compact telescoping paddle and a water throw bag are the other small backups that earn their space on tenders, dinghies and small boats. The Boater Safety & Emergency Kit bundles an air horn, throw bag, manual bilge pump and paddle together. For a deeper look at pumps, see the guide to choosing the best boat bilge pump, and for a full list of required and recommended gear, see the boat safety equipment checklist.

If the boat is safe but out of commission from one issue or another, these tools help you stand a fighting chance at fixing common problems on the water.

7. Phillips and Flathead Screwdriver

An obvious but often overlooked choice is a good multi-functional screwdriver that helps to inspect repair issues under the floor or take off a panel to investigate a troubled area.

Since boating often exposes screws to the elements, cheap screwdrivers may strip or be stripped by the screw. It's important to invest in suitable materials like marine-grade and water-resistant steel screwdrivers instead of bargain bin options.

8. Long Needle Nose Pliers

Good for fishing as well as fixing, needle nose pliers are a convenient tool that can hold a screw, pry a hook out of a fish and twist a small item into place.

They can also be used to fish out any dropped part from the bilge. Their versatility and usefulness on a boat is virtually endless.

9. Locking Pliers

Locking pliers clamp onto nuts, bolts and other parts of many different sizes, which makes them a handy backup gripping tool for temporary repairs. They can chew up a fastener, so use the correctly sized wrench or socket whenever possible, especially when torque matters or the nut needs to stay undamaged.

10. Ratchet and Sockets with Spark Plug Match

If your engine uses spark plugs, properly removing one requires its fitted socket. Keeping a ratchet set and a spare spark plug on board will save you the hassle of calling for help for an easy fix. Check your engine manufacturer's manual for the correct plug and socket size.

Also, don't forget a wobble extension to give a little more leeway in claustrophobic repair situations. Boat engine bays are especially unforgiving because there's no dropping a part through to the ground like on a car, so it pays to avoid losing your tool to the bilge.

11. A Rigging Knife

Rigging knives are perfect for boating and more useful than their commonplace counterparts. Adding a marline spike is extremely practical for undoing pesky knots.

Though some may be content with an old folding blade, the added attachments of a rigging knife yield more utilitarian value on the water. Space saving is a must. Get more done with less.

Keep it sharp so it can cut through lines if needed. If stuck in rising and rough waters with no time to untie from the dock, the knife may be what protects your boat. Keep it where it can be reached in a hurry and use it with care.

Hand tools for the onboard bag

  • Phillips and flathead screwdriver
  • Long needle nose pliers
  • Locking pliers
  • Ratchet, sockets and a spare spark plug
  • Wobble extension
  • Rigging knife with marline spike
Compact hand tools that cover common fixes

12. Hose Clamps

White marine ventilation hose with two stainless steel clamps
Marine hose and stainless clamps

Leaks from worn hoses and loose fittings can ruin a day. Carry spare hose clamps that match the hose sizes and materials already on your boat, and use them only as an appropriate temporary repair to get home.

Choose corrosion-resistant clamps made for marine use, and tighten them with the screwdriver. A clamp alone does not fix a failing hose, so inspect the hose itself for cracks, soft spots or damage. Some applications call for a second clamp, and the boat or equipment manual should be followed before the system goes back into service. Hoses below the waterline deserve extra care, so have them properly repaired as soon as possible.

A common mistake is swapping a corroded clamp on a bilge pump hose for a simple automotive hose clamp and then forgetting about it. A couple of years later the clamp can corrode and let go, so check clamps on a regular schedule.

13. Multi-meter

The combination of water and electricity scares away boaters, but don't be afraid. A multi-meter can help diagnose electrical problems, so you can track down that short or dead wire.

Read up on the proper voltage for your boat. Most boats run lights, pumps and electronics on a 12 volt DC system, though some also have 120 volt AC shore power, so check the boat's wiring diagram or manual before testing. Knowing which system a circuit belongs to makes it easier to isolate the problem.

Which meter test and when

Voltage testing

Done on a live circuit with the meter set to the right voltage mode.

Continuity and resistance

Done only with power disconnected and the circuit isolated.

Meter mode decides whether power stays on

Meter modes matter. Voltage testing is done on a live circuit with the meter set to the right voltage mode, while continuity and resistance testing are done only with power disconnected and the circuit isolated. Follow the meter's instructions and the boat's manual for each test. Leave uncertain DC work and all shore power work to a qualified marine electrician. For more background, see the guide to marine grade wiring.

14. Wire Stripper and Crimping Tool

Once the problem is tracked down, quality wire strippers will be useful. Since precision is important in electrical work, it's best to invest in a better-quality pair to give you neat strips. Look for something water-resistant that handles multiple wire diameters.

Pair the strippers with a suitable crimping tool sized for the connectors you carry. A crimped connection is far more secure on a vibrating boat than a twisted splice.

15. Crimp Connectors, Electrical Tape and Extra Marine Wire

Keep these must-haves zipped up in a bag so they don't stray around the toolbox. Carry properly sized, marine-grade heat-shrink crimp connectors, a roll of electrical tape and a length of extra marine wire that matches the gauge of your circuits.

Simple wire repair order

  1. Find the faultUse the multimeter to locate the problem.
  2. Disconnect powerDo this before cutting, stripping or crimping anything.
  3. Strip the wireStrip only as much as the connector needs.
  4. Crimp the connectorUse the right crimping tool for a secure connection.
  5. Tape around itTape tidies and insulates but does not make the connection.
Order of work for a basic wire repair

Start by finding the fault with the multimeter. Voltage checks happen on the live circuit, set to the correct mode. Before cutting, stripping or crimping anything, disconnect power. Continuity and resistance checks also require power to be off. Then strip the wire as needed and make the repair with a crimp connector and the right crimping tool. Tape is useful for tidying and insulating around a finished connection, but wrapping alone does not make a sound electrical connection. Wire nuts are not a good fit for typical boat wiring because vibration can loosen them.

Extra marine wire can be used for a full replacement. Also, keep spare boat fuses for any other electrical issues that may arise. Follow the meter and boat manuals, and if a repair is beyond what you are sure about, have a qualified marine electrician look at it. Any work involving shore power should go to a professional.

16. Zip Ties

Zip ties have many uses on a boat. For one, boats move and cargo jiggles. Zip ties can bundle loose wires, tidy hoses and hold down light gear that is getting unwieldy.

Keep zip ties to temporary organization and noncritical securing jobs. They should never carry a load or be used in safety-critical rigging such as anchor systems, towing or lifting.

17. Prop Wrench

Reflective water makes it difficult to see floating debris under the surface that can seriously chip or mangle the prop. A damaged or tangled prop does not have to end the season, but changing one is a job for a secured boat, not for open water.

Before changing a prop

  • Boat secured ashore or on a trailer
  • Engine off and key removed
  • Engine shutoff lanyard pulled
  • Drive secured against any movement
  • Manufacturer procedure followed
Prop work belongs ashore, not on open water

Prop work should normally be done with the boat secured ashore or on a trailer. Make sure the engine is off, the key is removed, the kill switch lanyard is pulled, the drive is secured against any movement, and the manufacturer's procedure is followed. A prop wrench and the spare prop you should be keeping on the boat make the swap straightforward once those steps are done.

If the prop fouls while out on the water, do not enter the water or lean over the stern in waves, current or any unsafe condition. Call for assistance instead. Don't forget to measure the prop nut to get the right fit, and check the engine manual for the correct procedure. Anyone prone to dropping tools should pay a little extra for a floating prop wrench, which is easier than living with the shame of watching one sink.

18. Moisture Meter

These meters are especially useful for long-term boat living or boats that sit for long stretches. If you noticed a leak but have no idea where it starts, a moisture meter can help point to areas that deserve a closer look.

Compare readings around the boat, but treat them as clues rather than answers. Readings can be thrown off by construction materials, metal, coatings, calibration and technique, so a meter alone does not locate or diagnose a leak. If readings suggest moisture in the structure, such as a deck or hull laminate, have a marine professional assess it. Before you hit the water, develop a checklist to head off avoidable issues and repairs that could tie you up.

Shop and Dock Box Tools Worth Adding

These tools are bulkier or messier than a typical onboard kit needs, but they make routine boat and trailer upkeep much easier.

19. Grease Gun

Grease gun hose connected to a trailer wheel bearing fitting
Greasing a trailer wheel bearing

Trailer bearings, zerk fittings and other moving parts need grease on a regular schedule. A marine grease gun that takes standard 14 oz grease tubes and has a one hand pistol grip handles tight or awkward spots. Tips, extensions and a flexible hose help reach different fittings. Check the boat, engine or trailer manual for the right grease and schedule. For trailer upkeep steps, see these boat trailer maintenance tips.

20. Hot Knife Rope Cutter

Frayed rope ends are a nuisance when cutting dock lines, anchor lines or straps. A hot knife rope cutter cuts and seals synthetic rope in one step instead of chasing frayed ends with a lighter. Its heated blade works on nylon, polyester and other synthetic rope, straps and fabric ribbon, and it fits well in the shop or dock box. Let the blade cool completely before storing it.

Onboard Kit Versus Shop Kit

An onboard kit is built for getting home. It holds the essentials above, kept together in one waterproof case or bag, with compact tools that handle common failures like loose hoses, fouled props and spark plug trouble. A shop kit is built for maintenance between trips and can include larger tools, a full socket set, a grease gun and a rope cutter.

Where each tool belongs

Onboard kit

Compact tools for getting home safely.

Shop kit

Larger tools for maintenance, like a grease gun and rope cutter.

Match the tool to where the work happens

On a small boat, tender or kayak, the onboard kit may be little more than a multi-tool, pliers, tape, zip ties and the safety basics. Bigger boats with inboard engines and complex wiring justify the full list. Rinse tools after saltwater trips and dry them before storing them. For more ongoing upkeep ideas, see these 7 boat maintenance tips.

Don't quiver at the first sign of inconvenience on the water. If you have the tools, get to work.

Frequently Asked Questions

What tools do you need on a boat?

At minimum, carry a waterproof flashlight with spare batteries, signaling gear, a fire extinguisher, a manual bilge pump where it suits the boat (kayaks, canoes, dinghies and small boats), screwdrivers, pliers, a knife, hose clamps, zip ties and tape. Add a ratchet and socket set with a spare spark plug if your engine uses plugs, and a prop wrench with a spare prop for outboards and sterndrives. Check US Coast Guard and state rules for required safety equipment.

What are the essential tools for boat maintenance?

Screwdrivers, needle nose and locking pliers, a ratchet and socket set, a grease gun, a multimeter and wire strippers cover most routine maintenance. Always check the boat and engine manuals for the specific tools and fluids your boat needs.

What are the top 10 boat tools?

A common top 10 includes screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, locking pliers, a ratchet and sockets, a rigging knife, hose clamps, a multimeter, wire strippers, zip ties and tape, and a prop wrench.

Do boat tools need to be marine grade?

Corrosion-resistant tools and hardware last longer around water, especially saltwater. Marine-grade or water-resistant tools are worth choosing for items that get used often or stay on board. Rinsing and drying tools after use also helps.

What is the difference between an onboard tool kit and a shop kit?

An onboard kit holds compact tools for getting home safely. A shop kit holds larger tools for maintenance at the dock or at home, such as a grease gun or a rope cutter.

What are some must-have boat accessories besides tools?

Beyond tools, boats need required safety equipment like life jackets, signaling devices and a fire extinguisher, plus dock lines, fenders and an anchor. See the boat safety equipment checklist for details.

What to buy for this job

Quick quiz

Tap a question to see the answer.

Why is a light dock line the wrong choice for towing?

Towing puts heavy loads on lines and fittings, so a line made and rated for towing is the right choice.

When should continuity and resistance tests with a multimeter be done?

Only with power disconnected and the circuit isolated. Voltage testing is done on a live circuit in the right mode.

What can a boat owner use to move water out of a small boat when battery power is not available?

A manual hand bilge pump, which stores easily in tight spaces and has a long hose to reach low areas. One is included in the Boater Safety & Emergency Kit.

Ready to try the Boater Safety & Emergency Kit? The Boater Safety & Emergency Kit is available at betterboat.com.