Boat Cleaning Hacks

Free guide

Boat cleaning hacks

Shoe scuffs that come off with water and an eraser. The deck you should never wax. The two cleaners you must never mix. Plus 20 practical tips, sorted by the part of the boat you are working on.

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5 cleaning mistakes most boaters make

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Shoe scuffs on the hull: scouring pad or eraser?

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The eraser. Shoe marks and dock grime usually come off with water and a wet cleaning eraser, using light pressure. Skip the scouring pad. Test a hidden spot first and stop if the finish changes. More below

Gear for this step

Boat Scuff ErasersCleaning erasers you wet, squeeze and wipe across shoe marks and scuffs on fiberglass and gelcoatView productSee current price at betterboat.com

Why wash your boat with two buckets?

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One holds soapy water, the other plain water for rinsing the mitt. The dirt stays in the rinse bucket instead of going back onto the hull, where grit can scratch the finish. More below

Gear for this step

Premium Boat Soap ConcentrateA concentrated boat wash for hulls, decks and cushionsView productSee current price at betterboat.com

Should you wax a non-skid deck?

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Never. Wax makes the deck slippery, which defeats the point of non-skid. Wet the deck, let a deck cleaner sit for the time on the label, scrub with a deck brush and rinse well. More below

Gear for this step

No Slip Boat Deck CleanerA deck cleaner for non-skid and fiberglass that you apply, let sit 2 to 3 minutes, scrub and rinseView productSee current price at betterboat.com

Bleach plus vinegar: a stronger cleaner?

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No. Bleach mixed with an acid such as vinegar releases chlorine gas, and bleach mixed with ammonia releases chloramine gas. Never combine cleaners or put one over another cleaner's residue. More below

After salt water you rinse the boat. What else needs it?

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The trailer, brakes included, if you pulled out on one. Rinse the whole rig with fresh water, then take wet towels, lines and loose cushions off the boat so they dry. More below

Gear for this step

De-Salt ConcentrateA salt remover concentrate for surface rinses and engine flushingView productSee current price at betterboat.com

Jump to a topic

📋Surface guide
🚤Hull and gelcoat
👟Non-skid deck
💺Vinyl seats
⛺Canvas and covers
🔩Metal and stainless
🪟Clear vinyl windows
💧After every trip
🛒Gear for this job
📚Sources

Who this is for: anyone who washes their own boat, from fiberglass runabouts to pontoons and small cruisers. Your boat builder's and material makers' care instructions, and each product label, come first.

Before you start: never mix cleaners. Bleach mixed with ammonia releases chloramine gas, and bleach mixed with an acid (vinegar, rust removers, some hull cleaners) releases chlorine gas. Never combine cleaners or apply one over another cleaner's residue. Keep tools and runoff separate. Follow each label's rinsing instructions before changing products, and test on a hidden spot first.

Quick surface guide

Screenshot this part. Your boat builder's and material maker's care instructions come first.

Smooth gelcoat

Routine: rinse, wash with boat soap and a soft brush or mitt, dry, wax on a schedule.

Watch out: grit on the mitt scratches the finish, so rinse loose dirt off first.

Molded non-skid

Routine: wet, apply deck cleaner, scrub with a deck brush, rinse well.

Watch out: never wax it. Foam or painted decks follow their own maker's instructions.

Marine vinyl

Routine: fresh water, gentle soap and a soft rag about once a week; dry, then a protectant your upholstery maker approves.

Watch out: no bleach, harsh household cleaners or stiff brushes unless your seat maker says otherwise.

Canvas

Routine: brush off dirt, hose, mild soap with a soft brush, rinse, air dry.

Watch out: check your fabric maker's guide before using any stain remover.

Stainless

Routine: plenty of fresh water and mild soap to rinse off salt.

Watch out: keep chlorine cleaners off it; they corrode stainless.

Clear vinyl windows

Routine: rinse first, then a clean, soft cloth and the cleaner your window maker approves.

Watch out: no paper towels, household glass cleaner or car wax.

Hull and gelcoat

1Use two buckets

Fill one with soapy water and one with plain water for rinsing the mitt. Dirt stays in the rinse bucket instead of going back onto the hull, where grit can scratch the finish. Hose off loose dirt before the mitt ever touches the boat.

Gear for this step

Premium Boat Soap ConcentrateA concentrated boat wash for hulls, decks and cushionsView productSee current price at betterboat.com

2Match the brush and cleaner to the surface

Discover Boating recommends soft bristles on painted or gelcoated surfaces. Keep a soft brush or a microfiber mitt for the hull and sides. For molded fiberglass non-skid, use the recommended deck brush. Follow separate care instructions for foam decking, painted decks and other coverings.

3Scuff marks: water and an eraser, not a scouring pad

Shoe marks and dock grime usually come off with a wet cleaning eraser. Test first and use light pressure. If the finish changes, don't continue. Restore protection on smooth gelcoat as its manufacturer recommends. Do not wax non-skid.

Gear for this step

Boat Scuff ErasersCleaning erasers you wet, squeeze and wipe across shoe marks and scuffs on fiberglass and gelcoatView productSee current price at betterboat.com

4Waterline and rust stains: let the cleaner sit

Brown waterline stains, rust streaks and exhaust marks rarely scrub off with soap. A hull cleaner that you apply, leave for the time on the label, then rinse does most of the work. Many hull cleaners are acid based (read the label), so keep them away from bleach products and rinse thoroughly.

Gear for this step

Instant Boat Hull CleanerAn apply, wait and rinse hull cleaner for waterline stains, rust stains and exhaust marks on fiberglass...View productSee current price at betterboat.com

5Wax smooth gelcoat at least twice a year

Wash off dirt and debris and let the boat dry completely before you start. Discover Boating's rule of thumb is twice a year at minimum, and it notes most experts suggest every three or four months. If the gelcoat is heavily oxidized, it needs a compound before polish or wax.

Non-skid deck

6Wet the deck, let the cleaner work, then scrub

Non-skid texture holds dirt, so it needs a brush rather than a quick mop. On molded fiberglass non-skid, wet the deck, apply your cleaner, wait the time the label gives, then scrub with the recommended deck brush and rinse well. Foam decking and painted decks need their own maker's cleaning instructions.

Gear for this step

No Slip Boat Deck CleanerA deck cleaner for non-skid and fiberglass.View productSee current price at betterboat.com

7Never put regular wax on non-skid

Wax makes the deck slippery, which defeats the point of non-skid. If you want shine or UV protection there, use a product made specifically for non-skid surfaces.

Vinyl seats

8Rinse and wipe weekly instead of scrubbing monthly

Fresh water, a soft rag and gentle soap, about once a week during the season. Discover Boating suggests that weekly routine, with a deeper clean about once a month.

9Keep bleach and stiff brushes off your seats

Discover Boating warns against caustic cleaners (bleach especially) and stiff bristle brushes on boat seats, because they strip the protective treatment and damage the vinyl. Seat material maker Morbern adds that some household cleaners and solvents pull out the ingredients that keep vinyl soft, which leaves it brittle.

Morbern does list a diluted bleach method for specific vinyls sold as bleach cleanable. That applies only to those materials and that method; it does not approve other bleach products for your seats. If a stain needs more than soap, check your seat manufacturer's care guide first.

10Dry it, then add a UV protectant

Let the seat dry completely after cleaning, then apply a vinyl protectant. Use a protectant approved by your upholstery manufacturer. Do not assume it restores the original factory coating.

Gear for this step

Boat Interior Vinyl ProtectantA UV protectant spray for boat seats and interior vinylView productSee current price at betterboat.com

11Watch out for blue jeans and ink

White vinyl absorbs dye from fabrics that bleed, and blue denim is the classic example, so throw a towel down before someone sits in new jeans. Ballpoint ink can stain vinyl permanently; Morbern's advice is to wipe it right away rather than letting it sit.

Canvas and covers

12Brush, hose, soft brush, air dry

Sunbrella's routine for marine canvas: brush off loose dirt, hose it down, wash with water and a mild soap using a soft bristle brush, rinse until the soap is gone, and let it air dry.

13Re-treat when water soaks in instead of beading

Repeated cleanings and years of sun wear down how well a fabric sheds water. Sunbrella says you can refresh it with a retreatment product after cleaning. If you use a fabric waterproofing spray, clean and dry the fabric first and confirm compatibility with the fabric's manufacturer. Protect clear windows from spray and runoff.

Gear for this step

Waterproof Spray for FabricA fabric waterproofing spray for covers and tops, applied outdoors or in a well ventilated areaView productSee current price at betterboat.com

14Don't force a sticky snap

Yanking a snap that's gritty with salt is how canvas tears. Clean the snap, then rub a little wax lubricant on it and on stiff zippers.

Gear for this step

Boat Zipper and Snap LubeA clear wax stick for metal and plastic snaps and zippersView productSee current price at betterboat.com

15Mildew stains on canvas: check the fabric first

Sunbrella's care page allows a specific diluted bleach and soap mix for stubborn stains on its fabric. Approval for diluted household bleach does not establish compatibility with any formulated stain remover. Follow the instructions for your exact fabric, coating, stitching and cleaner. Protect nearby hardware and clear windows, and test a hidden spot. Chlorine cleaners corrode stainless snaps and fittings.

Gear for this step

Mildew Stain RemoverRemoves mildew stains: spray, let it sit, rinse.View productSee current price at betterboat.com

Safety: this one contains bleach. Mildew Stain Remover contains sodium hypochlorite (bleach) and sodium hydroxide. Wear eye protection, protective gloves and protective clothing. Never combine this product with vinegar, ammonia, acids, other cleaners or homemade mixes. Follow the label directions, work in fresh air and rinse the area thoroughly.

Metal and stainless

16Fresh water and mild soap first

Stainless hardware does best with plenty of fresh water and mild soap, which rinse away the salt that holds moisture against the metal. Skip chlorine cleaners on stainless entirely.

Gear for this step

Marine Metal PolishA wipe on, wipe off cream polish for chrome and stainlessView productSee current price at betterboat.com

17Look before you polish

Polishing away rust stains around a fitting can hide a corrosion problem underneath. Practical Sailor suggests inspecting suspect fittings (dye test kits exist for this) before you shine them up.

Clear vinyl windows

18No paper towels, no household glass cleaner

Avoid paper towels. Rinse away grit, then use a clean, soft cloth approved by the window manufacturer, and switch to a fresh cloth every 5 to 20 square feet. Strataglass specifically rules out Windex, Rain-X and car wax on its panels; use the cleaner your window maker approves.

19Roll warm, stack soft

Practical Sailor's rule: don't roll older vinyl windows below about 60°F, and roll them with soft clean fabric so the vinyl never touches itself. Your panel maker's instructions decide whether panels can be rolled at all. If you stack removed panels, put a bed sheet between each one.

After every trip

20Rinse the salt, then pull out anything wet

After a saltwater run, rinse the whole boat with fresh water, including the trailer brakes if you pulled out on a trailer. Then take wet towels, lines and loose cushions off the boat so they dry instead of sitting in a closed cabin or locker.

Gear for this step